We’re in Houston for a couple of days as Brian learns the color of his parachute. We had just a driving day yesterday, but we did see a few fun things on the trip!
This armadillo is in Schertz, Texas, in front of a flea market site:
We visited Seguin, Texas, home of the world’s second-largest pecan:
I realize that sign says it’s the world’s largest, but apparently there is a bigger one in Missouri. At some point, I imagine we will go verify that!!
We also made a stop here:
Buc-ee’s is just about the best highway stop I’ve ever seen in my life (and that is saying something!). We were enticed by a large billboard a few miles before the exit that said it contained restrooms so amazing “you have to pee them to believe!!!!” And as gross as that sounds, they actually were totally amazing restrooms. Plus, Buc-ee’s has a huge selection of Texas-themed gift items, specialty foods, homemade treats… it’s awesome.
We also passed both a watermelon-shaped water tower and a giant Playmate Igloo cooler, but for various reasons, we have no photographic evidence of either. Next time!
We’re heading out of Houston tomorrow, and internet access may be limited for a few days. We’ll check in when we can!
Remember how I said someone told us last night that the power would be back on in two hours? Yeah. That didn’t happen. In fact, the power didn’t come on until after we checked out today. Sooo we both had a pretty rough night and kind of a rough morning, too, as the power outage also meant there was neither hot water for showers nor any food available at the park restaurant today. Sheesh, guys! The other issue is that Big Bend was about eleventy billion degrees out today, and of course we were out in the hottest part of the day, so all that made things a bit challenging. However, we still managed to enjoy some truly beautiful things!
Here are our mountain friends from last night in the sunlight:
Here’s the view from a trail we took near the park lodge:
Here we are by the sign that we saw driving in last night:
Here are Mule Ears Peaks (one of my favorites of the day):
Here is Santa Elena Canyon:
We saw some horses cooling off in the muddy water there:
We even walked up to get a closer view of the canyon (and as I mentioned, it was hot hot hot, so this was quite an achievement):
We also saw this totally cute lizard:
… and some desert on our way out of the park:
Driving out towards Marathon, Texas, we saw some vultures perched on some posts along the road:
We’re back in Fort Stockton tonight at the charming Days Inn where we spent the night last week. (Seriously, it’s a really nice Days Inn.) We are going to sleep in air conditioning, take hot showers in the morning, and enjoy this free wireless internet!! We continue our journey east tomorrow!
Our first stop this morning was at a big pile of trash. Check it out!
But of course that’s not just any pile of trash. That pile of trash is part of the world’s largest roadrunner!!!
He’s a bit strange since he just hangs out at a rest stop all day with no plaque or anything. I don’t know a thing about his story. But he’s pretty great, obviously!
We then headed back into Texas!
As we drove east on I-10, we waved to Mexico. (I-10 follows the Mexico-U.S. border, so everything you’re seeing in the distance below is Mexico.) Hi, Mexico!
On our way back to Marfa, we encountered our UFO again. This time, it was grounded!
We stopped for dinner at Pizza Foundation in Marfa (again, delicious) and then headed south toward Big Bend… and then things really got interesting.
I had made a reservation at the park lodge (a first for us as we usually stay in a town outside of a national park) since our time in Big Bend will be limited, but since I’ve never been to this park before, I didn’t really know much about where things were located and the like. I assumed we would just find out from the park ranger at the entrance station when we arrived, but I started to get worried when we weren’t on our way until fairly late.
And then the storm started.
It was a completely crazy storm with bouts of intense rain and very bright, very strong lightning everywhere. It was really dark (except when the lightning flashed), so we would just get these occasional glimpses of the huge mountains or whatever was going on right next to us. I don’t really know how to explain it, but it’s just an unsettling experience to be in unfamiliar terrain in the middle of absolutely nowhere with really tall rocks right next to you that you can only see when the super bright lightning that is flashing in every direction around you — particularly when you don’t really know where you’re going or anything. We started to get scared that the park lodge would be closed when/if we ever arrived and we wouldn’t be able to get in… and of course there was no way to call since we didn’t have any cell service and there were no towns or people anywhere!!
Anyway, we did make it to the park, which was a big relief, but it was probably around 9pm at that point, so the entrance station was unmanned. We had to just hope for some signage to help us find the lodge. Yikes! Fortunately, there was a clearly marked sign eventually, and the road took us over some sharp switchbacks, and we saw a huge sign warning us about being in BEAR AND MOUNTAIN LION COUNTRY USE EXTREME CAUTION OMG!!!!!! I think that was when Brian informed me I would no longer be allowed to make in-park reservations.
Thankfully, we did find the lodge. Unfortunately, it was pretty dark and nothing really looked open. Luckily, someone was bringing trash out from the main building (the lodge here is kind of a mini-complex with a few different buildings with guestrooms, a restaurant, store, etc.), so I jumped out of the car to ask how we could get into our room. She directed me to a bulletin board that had an envelope pinned to it with my name on it. Seriously?? I would NEVER have known about that! The envelope contained our key and a little map to show us how to get to the room. Then, on our way to the building where our room was, we noticed the power go out in the adjacent building. We hoped it was just people turning off their lights for the night, but (spoiler alert) of course it wasn’t.
The rain had stopped at this point and we just saw occasional flashes of heat lightning; the clouds were moving by very quickly, but when the moon wasn’t covered by them, it was really bright. We were finally starting to relax at this point since we had a key and a room and everything and we had survived the drive and the storm, so we decided to hang out in the parking lot of the lodge and take a few pictures of the stunning moonlit landscape…
While we were hanging out there, a couple of other lodge guests came by to chat about the power situation. Apparently something had been damaged by the storm out by El Paso (!) and everything was completely off. One guy told us they were expecting to have it back on in two hours. Sooooo we got out our flashlights and got our stuff into our room without really being able to see very much. What an evening!!
We went to the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta!!
It was a spur-of-the-moment decision to come out to New Mexico when we were at Balmorhea and Brian overheard some Speedo-wearing guy there telling some other random people about how he was going to go to the Balloon Fiesta. As it turns out, Brian had quite the fascination with hot air balloons as a child and has always dreamed of going to the Balloon Fiesta (the largest balloon festival in the world)! Who knew? And the timing all worked out perfectly, so we went today. Yay!!
The Balloon Fiesta is a big deal, y’all. We had to get up at 4am (not kidding) and drive to a random shopping mall parking lot, leave Pearl, and board Albuquerque School District yellow school buses (notably the second time in just a few months we’ve been inside a school bus), which eventually took us to the Balloon Fiesta Park. Oh, and did I mention it was really, really cold? Because it was. And also it was pitch black.
However, just a few minutes after we arrived at the park, Dawn Patrol began!!
Dawn Patrol
The Dawn Patrol began at Balloon Fiesta in 1978, when two California balloonists developed position lighting systems that allowed them to fly at night. Dawn Patrol pilots take off before sunrise and fly until it is light enough to see landing sites. Fellow balloonists appreciate the Dawn Patrol because they can watch the balloons and get an early idea of wind speeds and directions different altitudes.
There was a little break after Dawn Patrol while we all waited for the sun to come up and whatnot, so we went and got funnel cakes and hot chocolate for breakfast, browsed the souvenir tents, and tried not to freeze (with little success). We didn’t have to wait very long before Mass Ascension began – about 600 hot air balloons all inflating and rising together over about two hours. It was truly amazing! We had some gray and cloudy skies, but the weather didn’t diminish the experience at all.
Here is a snippet of the many, many videos I took on my iPhone during the ascension.
But wait!! Believe it or not, that’s not all. After we got out of the park (which, incidentally, took around two hours from field to Pearl’s door — come on, Albuquerque International Balloon Festival), we drove to White Sands National Monument! And we saw a giant pistachio on the way!
Unfortunately, by the time we arrived at White Sands, it was raining (?!) (not the first time we have brought rain to the desert), plus we were exhausted from our early morning and everything, so we didn’t spend a lot of time there. It was a beautiful and interesting landscape in spite of the rain, though.
We had initially toyed with the idea of sledding down the sides of the dunes (which is one of the main activities to do at White Sands), but the rain made that less appealing. It didn’t stop these little girls, though!
White Sands is one of the few national parks where you can pretty much go wherever you want. There are a couple of trails, but you are more than welcome to walk all over the dunes and touch things and kick sand around and stuff.
By the time we finished up there, we were both pretty much about to collapse, so we got set up as quickly as we could at the Ramada in Las Cruces, N.M. (which is very nice — much nicer than how we usually roll). Tomorrow, we head back to Texas!
We didn’t stay long today, though. But we’d like to come back since Marfa is chock-full of really interesting looking art galleries and the like. We also had a deeeeelicious breakfast this morning at Cochineal. I mean, what was that about? I was really not expecting that level of awesome in the culinary department in rural west Texas. Good job, Cochineal!
Anyway, we continued on our merry way down the road.
Wait a minute. What is that?
OMG A UFO!!!!!!!!!
Oh. Just kidding. It’s a weather blimp. But we are in UFO country over here, so you have to keep your eyes peeled!
So, after Marfa, we drove through a little town called Valentine, and then we happened upon a Prada store. Alas, it was closed.
More desert landscape followed:
Then we drove through El Paso. And I have to ask, El Paso, what is your deal? Why are you SO HUGE and sprawled and spread out and full of soooo many strip clubs and strip malls?
And then…
Wait, what? Yes! We decided to go to New Mexico! We have our reasons! You’ll see. We weren’t even deterred by this!
First of all, we went to Hatch, New Mexico. Hatch is the home of the famous hatch chiles that show up in late summer and immediately begin making everything more delicious. The tiny little town hosts a big chile festival in September.
We were a bit late for the festival, obviously, but there were still lots of chile stands lining the road into town.
We also got to see the famous chiles growing in the field!!
As if all that awesomeness weren’t enough, Hatch is also home to Sparky’s, which not only has delicious food but is also a roadside-attraction aficionado’s dream, with statues of Uncle Sam, some weird cartoon family holding burgers and root beer, a metal robot and pig, etc:
After Hatch, we shot straight up to Albuquerque’s charming Sandia Peak Inn (by the way, I think this is the only hotel we’ve patronized on Route 66 in all our travels). We enjoyed seeing the lovely harvest moon on our way!
Why the heck are we in Albuquerque, you ask? You’ll just have to come back tomorrow to find out!
… and we are buying! We began the day with a visit to Fort Stockton’s finest attraction, Paisano Pete:
Paisano Pete is 11 feet tall and 22 feet long. Some claim he’s the world’s largest roadrunner, but I’ve recently heard that there might be some competition. Regardless, he’s quite impressive.
We then headed back out on I-10, enjoying some beautiful scenery on the way:
Hold up a second. DO YOU SEE THAT?
YES! That is an awesome wildlife sighting!!! At first we assumed he was a mountain goat, but I now believe him to be a Barbary sheep. Usually these dudes are found in Africa, but… this one was in Texas. Anyway, he was just sitting up on this rocky butte observing the area and looking majestic. Thanks, Barbary sheep!
After that, we visited Balmorhea State Park, home to a crazy swimming pool:
The pool is spring fed and houses a variety of aquatic wildlife. It has 3.5 million gallons of water and is over 20 feet deep in some places. It’s the only pool I’ve ever seen where you can both swim and scuba dive. For some reason (maybe because I don’t know how to swim??), the depth of the pool completely freaked me out, and I didn’t go in even though it’s only 3 feet deep at one of the edges. Brian swam, though. Good job, Brian!
We also had an encounter with a hawk at the park!
Uhh… he is a hawk, right? After the whole Barbary sheep thing, I’m lacking confidence in my taxonomy skills.
We then ventured into the Davis Mountains!
We drove around a bit on a scenic loop (and by the way, we saw and photographed a tarantula, but I’m not including the photos here in case anyone is squeamish about that) (… okay, and also so I don’t have to look at him — I’m sorry, tarantula, but you give me the jibblies!) and had a lovely dinner at the Hotel Limpia in Fort Davis.
We explored the area a bit and finally ended up at…. as if the tarantula specifically and west Texas in general weren’t creepy enough… Marfa Mystery Lights Viewing Center in Marfa!!!
We actually first learned of the Marfa lights on one of our first nights in Austin when we were flipping through our newly-hooked up cable channels and happened upon a Texas-on-demand channel (not kidding), which just so happened to be showing a program on the lights. I don’t know quite how to explain them because no one knows what they are, but basically if you stand in this one area, you can see these weird inexplicable lights flashing and changing colors and moving around in the distance, but science has yet to determine their cause or origin. Also, if you try to move close to the lights, they are no longer visible.
Personally, I subscribe to the theory that there’s some kind of atmospheric condition out there that bends the light in an unusual way.
They have a little viewing center where we watched the sunset while we waited for the lights:
And then, before we knew it… it was time!
Obviously they’re quite challenging to photograph, but you can sort of see one of them here from far away (this is a slow exposure, so in person the surroundings were quite dark, but the bright moonlight illuminates everything in the photos):
… and zoomed in:
They move, you guys. It’s pretty weird!
After that, we settled into the Riata Inn in Marfa for the night (thanks, friendly front desk man!). Super 8s are none too common ’round these parts. The Riata Inn was on par for the most part, though it has a way nicer staff and spotty internet and shower. Anyway, we forgive them. We’re off again tomorrow!
We sure covered a lot of ground today. And to cover a lot of ground, you need shoes. So we started our Wednesday with the World’s Largest Cowboy Boots (I’m in this picture, by the way, being totally dwarfed by these boots. I’m in the middle!):
The weird thing about these is that they are in front of a big shopping mall. Specifically, they reside directly outside the Saks Fifth Avenue in said mall. There’s no sign or anything, so I don’t know how they came to be at San Antonio’s North Star Mall, but… that’s where they are. Still, pretty awesome!
Note the conspicuously absent spurs!!
Then we got on I-10 and headed west. We don’t really have a specific itinerary for anything, but we have some vague ideas about going out to Big Bend. It’s a long drive, but fortunately there are interesting diversions along the way, such as this:
Yep. That would be “Stonehenge II.” It’s in Hunt, Texas, or Kerrville, Texas, depending whom you ask. Basically, this one dude decided to put a big rock in this other dude’s field, and it became a little friendly joke, and then they decided to build a stonehenge. I can’t really explain it more clearly than that. Dude #2 (Al Sheppard) conceptualized the project and commissioned dude #1 (Doug Hill) to design and construct it.
This stonehenge has a couple of differences from the original. First of all, it’s made of concrete and steel. Also, it’s about 2/3 the size, and it is not oriented to the sun. But perhaps most importantly, Stonehenge II includes these:
Why are there Easter Island-looking heads at Stonehenge II in Hunt/Kerrville, Texas, you ask? Stonehenge II’s sign answers:
The Easter Island statuary, for Al, was a natural partner for Stonehenge II. He had visited Easter Island and now thought the mystery of the construction of those magnificent statues was a complement to the mystery of Stonehenge.
Can’t argue with that!
Incidentally, some of you may remember we also took a trip to Foamhenge in Virginia a couple of years ago (pre-blog)… so this didn’t seem as random to us as maybe it should.
That is a single blade from one of the large energy windmills rolling down the interstate on a big ol’ truck. We’ve seen this a couple of times before but haven’t been speedy enough to get a snapshot. The ginormousness of this doesn’t totally convey, I think. They are HUGE! And kind of freaky!! Way to be, energy windmill blades!
We also pulled off for a scenic overlook near Junction, Texas.
Sooooo, we did walk along this very obvious path so we could enjoy the view, but I must admit we didn’t stay long. I think the trespassing issue applied only to what looked like some private property on the side of the sign we didn’t walk down, but we are in Texas and we thought we better not push our luck lest shots are fired. We did get to see this, though!
I love a good succulent. I did totally get attacked by a cactus, though, I guess because we (possibly) trespassed.
Moving on to Junction, we paused to enjoy the deer antler tree:
I don’t know if this is just for Christmas or what, but it looks like they’re set up for holiday-style celebrations year-round:
Right next to the antler tree, we enjoyed this charming tribute to (we assume) the local high school football team:
Outside of Ozona, Texas, we had a wild turkey encounter!
Nice! Turkeys are jittery and really fast, so it’s hard to take a decent picture of them. We got really lucky with this little flock. Thanks, wild turkeys!
Ozona is the county seat of Crockett County, and they have a pretty awesome Davy Crockett memorial:
Please note the inscription:
Thanks for the awesome advice, Davy Crockett memorial!
After Ozona, it was all sunsets and big sky as we headed west:
We’re now in the quite lovely Days Inn in Fort Stockton, Texas, and looking forward to seeing where the journey takes us tomorrow! GET U SOME!!
You guys, moving is horrible. I can’t articulate exactly why, but I can tell you that the sum of a move is a million times more horrible than its horrible parts. Now, this may not be the fault of the move per se, but part of the problem for us is that we tend to do things at the eleventh hour, so for our first night of our new housing-optional lifestyle, we didn’t want to try to go really far away or anything. However, we did need a place to chill out and recover for a few days. It was definitely the right decision, as we found ourselves making our last trip to make a deposit in storage at, like, 9:47 pm. And they close at 10!
Anyway, we’ve both been to San Antonio separately before, but we decided to visit again, and I think it’s pretty obvious why we came. Remember?
I’m pretty sure a pilgrimage to the Alamo is required of every Texan. DON’T FORGET IT.
So, the thing about the Alamo is the thing about any battlefield-turned-park. It’s the juxtaposition of knowing it was the scene of a completely horrific, bloody nightmare pitted in your brain against the lovely tranquil garden into which the site has been converted. Kind of weird, right?
Anyway, other than that, we’ve been walking around the riverwalk and sleeping. Both of us are physically exhausted! But this has been a rejuvenating couple of days, and we’re ready to move on tomorrow to… well, we haven’t decided yet. But we are heading west!
Unexpected circumstances occurred and we finished moving out of our Austin apartment yesterday. We put all our stuff in storage (with the help of some truly incredible friends who incidentally went WAY beyond the call of duty to assist us!!!) and haven’t gotten a new permanent residence. We’ve decided to become “housing optional” for now and are traveling again. We actually have even less of a concrete plan than we had the last time we up and started a road trip… so we hope you’ll come along for the ride!
It was sad to pack up and leave Austin. We weren’t in love with our apartment specifically, but we sure will miss the wonderful friends we made and the amazing sunsets we got to enjoy every night for the past six months from our balcony:
Many more interesting and exciting adventures to come!!
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