Archive for the “2008 New England Road Trip” Category


For this journey, we decided to wait until we got home to do a route log. This was a much smaller trip and didn’t seem to require daily updates. It ended up being a little more involved that we initially planned, but that’s okay—that’s what’s fun about a road trip. You may have to view the larger version of the map to actually see where we went.

Isabel and I have now each visited 42 of these 50 states (we were together for all of them except Texas and Florida). The states we haven’t hit so far are: Alaska, Hawaii, North Dakota, Nebraska, Iowa, Oklahoma, Arkansas, and Kentucky. If we’re feeling ambitious, we could knock out three to five of those states on our December trip. I never had a goal visiting all 50 states before, but now I totally do. Looks like we could do it pretty easily now. Wonder what we’ll shoot for next?

On a somewhat unrelated note… after traveling thousands of miles and seeing the most fascinating things this country has to offer, I’m left with one burning question: New Jersey, what’s your deal? Do you really not trust me? Are you worried that I’m not smart enough to handle the complex operation that is pumping gas? Is this task really so complex that you must leave it up to a professional? Twice I have nearly run out of gas to make it over the state line so I can fill my own gas tank. Maybe I’m a little crazy, but I like to be in charge of my own petrol. Besides, I have no idea what tipping etiquette is for those guys and that’s enough to make me break out into a sweat. End rant, start log:


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We left Milford this morning and headed over to Norwalk, Conn., because we had heard of this place called Stew Leonard’s, reputed to be the World’s Largest Dairy Store. When we got there, we were kind of disappointed to see what looked like just a regular grocery store from the outside, but we decided to venture in anyway, just in case. We were not disappointed! Stew’s houses its own milk bottling plant right inside the store:

And as if that weren’t enough, it also houses a variety of animatronic figures that sing and dance while you browse for groceries. For example, there is singing animatronic butter:

There’s also a band of singing milk cartons, a lobster trapeze artist, singing lettuce and bananas, a talking cow, etc., etc., etc. The other cool thing about Stew’s is that they have information readily available about where their products come from with photos of the farms and the like. They also have a live video feed of their own dairy farm:

As Brian said, that’s transparency!

So after that, we got on the road and went through several states, starting with New York:

Then, New Jersey:

Then, briefly, Delaware!

Then, Pennsylvania:

In Penn., we made a stop at the Herr Foods snack factory to take their factory tour.

It was a great tour — one of the best we’ve done. We learned all about how Jim Herr started the company with, like, a single kettle and a potato peeler, and we saw pretzels, popcorn, and chips being made. We were the only people on the tour at that point (we totally dodged a bullet because an entire busload of schoolchildren had been on the tour before ours), so that was really fun. Our tour guide went onto the manufacturing floor towards the end of the tour and filled a giant bag of freshly cooked potato chips just for us! They were still warm and everything. Obviously, we are now obsessed with Herr’s. Check out our giant potato chip bag!

Thanks, Herr Foods!

After that, we continued into Maryland:

We met up with some friends for dinner, which was fantabulous as always, and then we headed home. We’re back in D.C. now and have about a week to recover before we get back on the road again!! We have a lot to do this week, of course, but we’ll try to check in, especially if there are any balcony updates.

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…but too tired to update tonight. Check back later tomorrow for a report on our last few New England adventures!

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We had our home base in Bangor, Maine, for two nights, but we had a couple of important sites to see before we left this morning. The first item on our list was this:

Yep, that’s a 31-feet-tall, 3,700 pound Paul Bunyan statue, the base of which contains a sealed time capsule from 1959, slated to be opened in 2084. Pretty impressive and also pretty… spooky, right? I mean, if that thing lived in your neighborhood, you’d probably be inspired to write, say, horror novels. Kind of like Stephen King! Here’s his house around the corner from our “Maine” man (ha!) Paul:

I’ve actually never read one of Stephen King’s books (though I do enjoy his column in Entertainment Weekly), and Brian hasn’t either, but we wanted to see his awesome spooky gate with bats and three-headed dragon-monsters on it. Also, he has an Obama/Biden sign in his yard. Nice!

After that, we headed to Scarborough, Maine, where Brian said there was a roadside attraction, but he decided to keep it a secret from me to surprise me. The surprise attraction was at Len Libby’s Candies and it was (drum roll)…

A life-size moose sculpture made of chocolate! Killer combo, Len Libby’s Candies! You’ll notice that, as a bonus, there are also some life-size chocolate bear cubs scattered about the scene.

After that, we bade farewell to Maine and went back into New Hampshire:

New Hampshire, I’m sure you have a lot to offer, but I’m afraid this trip wasn’t about you. We just passed through a tiny piece of N.H. before getting back into Massachusetts!

In Massachusetts, we ended up in Boston’s evening rush hour, which was exactly as fun as it sounds, so I won’t talk about that. We had planned a couple of other stops in Mass., but timing and the cold and the traffic and whatnot foiled us, so we only visited one place on our list: Jordan’s Furniture in Reading. I can’t believe I didn’t already know about this place. Their website looks very innocent; do not be fooled. It’s a local furniture store chain in the Boston area, and each store has a different crazy theme complete with crazy stuff in it. The store we chose to visit, for example, includes an indoor trapeze school and “Beantown,” a Jelly Belly store and series of Jelly Belly mosaic–covered sculptures of iconic Boston buildings and scenes. There’s also a giant Jelly Belly banana split on top of an ice cream stand inside. I mean, I really don’t know what to tell you about it. I know it doesn’t make sense, but it was there!

Okay! Moving on, we then went to Rhode Island!

Our primary destination in Rhode Island was the Hasbro headquarters, which boasts a giant Mr. Potato Head:

After that, we headed out to Connecticut:

We’re now in for the night and are most likely going to make our way home tomorrow, with a few exciting stops as always!

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Today we went to Acadia National Park! As usual, we had no idea what to expect before we got there. Unlike other parks, though, Acadia is not particularly forthcoming with information about what is going on there and the like, so I don’t have many words to say about it… but I do have photos. We did have some pretty serious cloudiness today, so our pictures don’t reflect how stunningly beautiful Acadia would be on a clear, sunny day. We enjoyed our visit a lot in spite of the clouds, but look how ominous they were:

Our first destination within the park was the Jordan Pond House for the traditional popovers, strawberry jam, and tea:

They were very delicious, and so was the view:

After that, we drove around in some very beautiful foliage:

We went to Cadillac Mountain, the tallest mountain within 25 miles of the U.S. east coast (so if you go up there at dawn, you get to be the first person in the country to see the sunrise):

We saw more foliage!!

We went to Sand Beach:

We went to Thunder Hole:

Then we went to Bar Harbor for a very lovely meal at McKay’s Public House where we got to sit in “the nook” (a tiny semi-private doorless room, just big enough for a table for two) just by random chance (or perhaps we charmed the host). Thanks, McKay’s! We’re back in Bangor for tonight and are moving on tomorrow!

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Settle in, everybody, because we did a lot of stuff today! First, we went here:

Going on the Ben & Jerry’s factory tour in Waterbury, Vermont, has been a longtime dream of mine (akin to seeing Old Faithful and the Grand Canyon), so it was very exciting to fulfill it today. We got to see them packing coffee ice cream, and we enjoyed a sample of exotic Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough ice cream at the end of the tour. Plus, we got to stand in a giant pint:

No photography allowed in the actual manufacturing & packing room, but I was allowed to snap through the window of the QC room:

Hooray!

Next, we ventured to Morse Farm Maple Sugarworks in Montpelier, Vt. It’s a working maple sugarhouse where they make maple syrup, sugar, creams, etc. We learned all about the sugaring process from a video we watched in the Woodshed Theatre:

Then we got to wander around and look at equipment and buy things (they weren’t making syrup or anything today; the sugaring season is really, really short and it’s still too warm at this point). We had some delicious maple ice cream and a tasting of all four maple syrup grades!

For some reason, I apparently forgot to take photos of all the sugaring equipment and stuff, but never fear because our next destination was also maple-related! It was the Maple Grove Farms maple candy plant in St. Johnsbury, Vt., and they had sugaring equipment there, too, so I got some pictures there and can explain it. Traditionally, maple trees were tapped and fitted with a little spout and a bucket to catch the sap like this:

Nowadays, though, most producers use a more modern setup involving plastic tubing. This saves them a lot of work moving the sap around. By the way, the tree decides how much sap it’s going to yield, and this depends on the temperatures and such; you can’t force the tree to produce more sap than it’s going to do naturally. The sap comes out very slowly (for example, it would take half a day to a full day to fill a typical bucket like the one above, depending on the age of the tree and the temps), and it takes 35 to 40 gallons of sap to produce one gallon of maple syrup!

Once extracted, the sap is placed in an evaporator like this one:

The stove part is below (a wood fire burns behind the doors you see at the bottom), and the sap is poured into the trays above and boiled down into syrup.

Maple Grove Farms’ main gig is making maple candy. They get the syrup from local farms and then basically just whip it up into fondant on vintage equipment (all their equipment is vintage); the fondant gets poured into molds, the molds are left to dry overnight, then the candy gets shaken out by hand. After that it is dipped into a vat of maple syrup here:

This forms a crust on the outside of the candy that acts as a natural preservative. Nice! Then the candy is packed by hand and sold. They also make a bunch of bottled products. They weren’t making candy anymore by the time we got there today (around 1:00 or 1:30), but we still had an interesting little tour.

After that, we headed up to Cabot, Vt., to visit the Cabot cheese plant!

This was especially interesting in light of my new cheese knowledge. They make their cheese at Cabot the same way we did at Ricki’s yesterday except (obviously) it’s on a much, much larger scale. Here they are breaking up their curds!

After Cabot, we went back to St. Johnsbury (we had to zigzag a bit today because of the various factories’ tour hours!) so we could go to the Dog Chapel. I think many of you are familiar with artist Stephen Huneck; I have a vague memory of seeing his work in a gallery or shop or something in Annapolis — maybe on State Circle?? He does all this work involving dogs:

So, when I saw a brochure for the Dog Chapel in Vermont and figured out it was also a gallery, I wanted to go check it out. The chapel is a little New England church–shaped building, but instead of the usual religious symbols all around, it has dogs (like the dog angel on top of the chapel):

But I was totally unprepared for the inside. It has dog (and a few cat) sculptures all around and pews with dogs carved into them, but more importantly, there are small pieces of paper and thumbtacks, and the walls are covered with photos, notes, and memorials visitors have written for their dearly departed dogs.

It was, as you can imagine, completely overwhelming and amazing and touching and sad and wonderful. Luckily, there are boxes of Kleenex around. This was just so unexpected but really good and special.

After we picked ourselves up and recovered from that experience, we headed east into New Hampshire!

We didn’t linger in New Hampshire very much, though, because we were trying to get into Maine before it got too dark so we could get a picture of the Maine welcome sign. When we crossed over into Maine, it had gotten pretty dark, and we had to pull over so I could get this fine photograph:

No welcome sign in Maine, apparently. Someone else had pulled over nearby, and we couldn’t figure out why, but then Brian spotted the enormous moose standing right by the side of the road!!! OMG! He was much closer than our previous moose friends, and I guess I already knew the moose was a large animal, but um… he was really big. And I don’t think he was a huge fan of people staring at him, to be honest with you. Because of the lack of light, it was very challenging to get a photo, but Brian did manage to get this one!

I can’t believe we’ve now had two random moose sightings. Thanks, Maine!

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Like a lot of people, I read and adored Barbara Kingsolver’s book Animal, Vegetable, Miracle. In particular, I was totally inspired by her chapter describing how she makes her own cheese in her home kitchen. It sounds crazy, but it really can happen! I’ve made a couple of attempts in my own kitchen, but I decided I needed some expert training, so today I took the Cheesemaking 101 workshop offered by Ricki Carroll of the New England Cheesemaking Supply Company.

It was very interesting and informative, and I can’t wait to get home to make some more cheese. It’s the kind of thing I had no idea a person could do in her home, so it’s just very exciting to get involved with it. The workshops have gotten insanely popular since the convergence of publicity from AVM and the ever-growing natural/sustainable/local/etc food movement made Ricki a celebrity, so we had an extremely full house today; the classes sell out right away, so if you want to take one, sign up ASAP (or give me some time to practice and I will teach you!).

This workshop and the expo in Boston were our main reasons for taking this New England trip so soon after our cross-country adventure, so technically we’re done now, but we figured we may as well keep the party going. So instead of heading back to D.C., we went to Vermont!

I have deep abiding love for Vermont, so even though it is sooooo cold (help!), I am thrilled to be up here. We have some very exciting stuff planned for tomorrow; check back for a full report!

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We’re back on the road! It’s just a brief trip this time, but with all the chaos in our apartment, being back in the car actually feels a lot more normal than home does right now. Our first stop was in Boston, where we visited with some friends and went to this:

We always enjoy Expo East, the giant natural products trade show on the east coast (held in Boston this year, obviously). One of my favorite giveaways this year was this sticker, modeled here for you by Brian on his Carter t-shirt:

Best sighting of the convention was a group of young women in traditional dress (of the Amish or Mennonite variety) wearing these stickers. Awesome.

Anyway, after leaving Boston today, we drove out to the DeCordova Museum, home to the amazing sculpture park that includes this piece (our favorite of the day):

We enjoyed lots of beautiful fall foliage on our way out to western Mass., which was fun:

We met up with some friends out here and ever-so-briefly went apple picking (in our case, this was more accurately just apple purchasing followed by orchard walking), then we headed to picturesque Shelburne Falls, home of the ancient glacier potholes:

Good times!

Can someone tell me what this plant is?

We saw it all day along the road; I’m just interested.

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